Field observation and numerical modelling of rip currents within a pocket beach

Sungwon Shin, Jungmin Nam, Sang Young Son, In Ho Kim, Tae Hwa Jung

Research output: Contribution to journalConference article

Abstract

Understanding the occurrence mechanism of rip currents are very important in terms of the sediment transport and the water safety issues. In order to investigate the rip current occurrence mechanism, field observations were carried out at Chunjin beach and a numerical model was employed to simulate rip currents by using the field observation data. The collected data set includes the beach topography, bottom bathymetries, shoreline, sand sample, and incident waves for each season. The field observation data showed the spatiotemporal variations of shoreline and sand bars. The results also showed that the rip currents were generated near the crescentic sand bar. For better understanding the mechanism of rip currents, numerical simulation using phase-resolving, three-dimensional 3D Non-Hydrostatic WAVE Model (NHWAVE) was also carried out. The model considered incoming wave conditions collected from the field observation to look at the nearshore current generation patterns. Through this numerical model, this study could have investigated vertical profiles of nearshore wave-induced current while the field observation data represent depth uniform currents. The numerical simulation showed a good agreement with the field observation and provided useful information for nearshore circulation.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)229-233
Number of pages5
JournalJournal of Coastal Research
Volume33
Issue numberSpecial Issue 79
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2017 Mar 1
Event2nd International Water Safety Symposium, IWSS 2016 - Incheon, Korea, Republic of
Duration: 2016 Jun 222016 Jun 24

Keywords

  • Crescentic sand bar
  • Field observation
  • Numerical modeling
  • Rip current

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Ecology
  • Water Science and Technology
  • Earth-Surface Processes

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