Three-Dimensional Hydrodynamics Associated with a Solitary Wave Traveling over an Alongshore Variable Shallow Shelf

Patrick J. Lynett, David Swigler, Hoda El Safty, Luis Montoya, Adam S. Keen, Sang Young Son, Pablo Higuera

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Abstract

We investigated, from two laboratory experiments, the kinematic behavior and the three-dimensional turbulence that is generated due to a breaking solitary wave propagating over irregular shallow water bathymetry. The bathymetry was composed of a deep water region followed by a shallow shelf via a relatively steep slope. The offshore boundary of the shelf break varied in the longshore direction. The shelf had a triangular shape in plan view, with the widest part of the shelf located along the center of the basin. The first experiment used a planar shelf, while an obstacle in the shape of a conical island was placed near the shelf apex for the second experiment. Measurements of fluid velocities and free surface elevations were collected using three-dimensional acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) and wave gauges, respectively. In the first experiment, the inundating flow varied weakly in the alongshore direction, but demonstrated strong variations in the second experiment. A refraction-generated jetting mechanism caused by the convergence of water mass near the basin centerline characterized the run-up. The greatest cross-shore velocities were located near the basin's centerline and were triggered by the jetting mechanism. The greatest turbulent events were well correlated with four identified bore fronts. The bore fronts were generated by a combination of waves including the leading wave, beach reflections, and shelf oscillations. A primary conclusion of this study is that nonlinear long-wave transformation over irregular bathymetry can lead to a highly complex nearshore wave field with little apparent correlation to the offshore wave.

Original languageEnglish
Article number04019024
JournalJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Volume145
Issue number6
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2019 Nov 1

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solitary wave
Solitons
Hydrodynamics
hydrodynamics
Bathymetry
bathymetry
Experiments
experiment
basin
breaking wave
Velocimeters
Water
wave field
shelf break
refraction
water mass
gauge
Beaches
Refraction
shallow water

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Water Science and Technology
  • Ocean Engineering

Cite this

Three-Dimensional Hydrodynamics Associated with a Solitary Wave Traveling over an Alongshore Variable Shallow Shelf. / Lynett, Patrick J.; Swigler, David; El Safty, Hoda; Montoya, Luis; Keen, Adam S.; Son, Sang Young; Higuera, Pablo.

In: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 145, No. 6, 04019024, 01.11.2019.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Lynett, Patrick J. ; Swigler, David ; El Safty, Hoda ; Montoya, Luis ; Keen, Adam S. ; Son, Sang Young ; Higuera, Pablo. / Three-Dimensional Hydrodynamics Associated with a Solitary Wave Traveling over an Alongshore Variable Shallow Shelf. In: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering. 2019 ; Vol. 145, No. 6.
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